The Breton Shirt (marinière) was created in Brittany to protect fishermen from the cold and water. It was crafted from low-absorbency Breton cotton to give them freedom of movement. The design avoided seams and buttons so sailors wouldn’t get caught in the ropes. According to legend, the distinctive stripes also helped spot men who had fallen overboard or were performing risky maneuvers.
On March 27, 1858, the Breton Shirt became the official uniform of the French Navy, and precise design standards were established: a striped pattern in indigo blue and white, with 21 white stripes (20 mm wide) and 21 blue stripes (10 mm wide). Legend has it that the 21 stripes symbolized each of Napoleon’s victories.
Although Coco Chanel was the visionary who brought it into the fashion world in the 1920s, it was Jean Paul Gaultier who truly embraced and reimagined it through his collections, turning it into an iconic garment and a must-have in every wardrobe.